Inner Hebrides
Contents |
Inner Hebrides
Introduction | Isle of Mull | Isle of Iona | Coll | Isle of Islay | Isle of Jura | Additional Information
Introduction to Inner Hebrides
The Inner Hebrides comprise the great swathe of islands lying off the western coast of Scotland - east of the Outer Hebrides, south of Skye and west of the Kintyre peninsula. Each is very different in appearance and atmosphere and each has its own distinct appeal.
The most accessible of the islands is Mull, a short ferry ride from Oban. It's also the most popular by far, and with some justification. The variety of scenery on offer is astounding and its capital, Tobermory, is the most attractive port in western Scotland. A stone's throw from Mull is tiny Iona, one of the most important religious sites in Europe, with some divine beaches. Boat trips can be made from Mull or Iona to the dramatic island of Staffa, looming out of the sea like a great cathedral and the inspiration for Mendelssohn's 'Hebrides Overture'. Further west, windswept Coll and Tiree offer miles of unspoilt beaches and some great windsurfing and, to the south, Colonsay is a stress-free zone that makes Mull seem hectic.
Those who enjoy a good malt whisky should head for Islay, famed for its distilleries, while neighbouring Jura is a wild and beautiful place, perfect for some off-the-beaten-track hiking. If you're after some peace and quiet on Jura then you're in good company, for this is where George Orwell came to write '1984'. Furthest north are the "small islands" of Eigg, Muck, Rùm and Canna, reached from Mallaig, but ignored by most tourists. People come here for the fine bird watching and superb walking.
Car space on ferries is limited during the summer months, so it's advisable to book ahead.
There are flights from Glasgow to Port Ellen Islay: 2 daily Mon-Fri and 1 on Sat (40 mins), all year round. From Glasgow to Tiree: 1 flight daily Mon-Sat (45 mins), all year round. For flight times, call British Airways Express, Tel. 08457-733377, the local Tourist Information Centres, or Port Ellen airport, Tel. 01496-302022, and Tiree airport, Tel. 01879-220309.
CalMac car and passenger ferries sail to and from Mull, Islay, Coll, Tiree, Colonsay and Gigha, and passenger-only ferries sail to Iona and the Small Isles (Eigg, Muck, Rùm and Canna). The departure point for ferries to Mull, Coll, Tiree and Colonsay is Oban. Ferry times change according to the day of the week and time of the year, so they aren't listed in full below. Services listed below under each separate island are for the summer period (2 Apr-16 Oct). For full details see the CalMac Ferry Guide or call CalMac, Tel. 08705-650000, reservations@calmac.co.uk (reservations); Tel. 01475-650100, Calmac Ferry Services (general enquiries).
For details of bus connections from Oban to Glasgow, contact Scottish Citylink, Tel. 08705-505050. For train services from Mallaig to Fort William and Glasgow, contact Scotrail, Tel. 08457-484950. There are regular daily train and bus services from Glasgow. For full details contact the TIC in Oban, Tel. 01631-563122. The departure point for ferries to Islay (and on to Jura), and some ferries to Colonsay, is Kennacraig. There are daily bus services from Glasgow, via Tarbert . Mallaig is the ferry port for the Small Isles of Eigg, Muck, Rùm and Canna. There are regular bus and train services from Glasgow, via Fort William. For bus, train and ferry times, pick up Argyll & Bute Council's free Area Transport Guides to Lorn, Mull and Islay & Jura, available at most tourist offices. For times of buses and trains to Mallaig, for the Small Isles, see the South Highland Public Transport Travel Guide (£1), available at main tourist offices. For details on how to get around the Inner Hebrides by public transport, see under the relevant island destination.
Getting around
Island Hopscotch TicketsIsland Hopscotch Tickets are a cheaper way to get around the islands with a car. There are various route options, and tickets give you 30 days' unlimited travel on each route. For example, a ticket for the Oban-Craignure-Tobermory-Kilchoan- Mallaig-Armadale route, allowing you to visit Mull and Skye, costs £8.55 per passenger and £53 per car. See the CalMac guide or call the numbers above for full details of the Island Hopscotch Tickets, and the Island Rover Ticket, which gives unlimited travel on most CalMac routes for 8 or 15 days.
Tourist information
There are Tourist Information Centres in Oban, Craignure and Tobermory (Mull), Bowmore (Islay), and Mallaig. Oban tourist office has information on all the islands covered in this chapter, with the exception of the Small Isles, information on which can be got from Mallaig tourist office.