Isle of Mull
Contents |
Isle of Mull
Introduction | Craignure | Tobermory | The West Coast | Ross of Mull | Walks on Mull
Introduction to Mull
The island of Mull is the third largest of the Hebridean islands and, after Skye, the most popular. Everyone has their own favourite island, but Mull has enough going for it to appeal to most tastes: spectacular mountain scenery; 300 miles of wild coastline; castles; wildlife; a narrow-gauge railway; some of the best fishing in Scotland; and some of the prettiest little villages; all in an area roughly 24 miles from north to south and 26 miles from east to west. It's worth spending time on Mull to fully appreciate its pleasures and to take advantage of the great hospitality of an island where people don't even have to lock their doors at night.
Like many of the Hebridean islands, the people of Mull, or Muileachs, suffered greatly during the Clearances, when they were forced off their land to make way for sheep. The subsequent decline in population was exacerbated by the terrible potato famine of 1846, and the population fell dramatically from a peak of 10,600 in 1820. Numbers have stabilized to around 2,500 in recent years, mainly through the replacement of native islanders by English and Scottish incomers, known as 'White Settlers'. This is something of a sore point and the locals sarcastically refer to their island as 'The Officer's Mess', when the resident population rises to around 8,000 during the summer.
With around 600,000 visitors a year, tourism is an important contributor to the island's economy, supplementing the traditional fishing, crofting and whisky distilling. Despite the numbers, Mull remains unspoiled, though the main roads become congested at the height of the season and accommodation can be hard to find, as there are few large hotels or campsites on the island.
Getting to Mull
Mull is well served by ferry services. From Oban to Craignure (40 mins) 6-8 times daily Mon-Sat and 5 times daily on Sun. One-way tickets cost £3.55 per passenger and £24.55 per car. CalMac offices: Oban, Tel. 01631-566688, and Craignure, Tel. 01680-812343. From Kilchoan to Tobermory 7 times daily Mon-Sat and 5 times daily on Sun (Jun-Aug). A one-way tickets cost £3.40 per passenger and £18.05 per car. From Lochaline to Fishnish (15 mins) hourly 0700-1910 Mon-Sat and 0900-1800 Sun. A one-way ticket costs £2.15 per passenger and £9.65 per car. Some ferries from Oban to Coll and Tiree call in at Tobermory.
Mull is one of the most accessible of the Hebridean islands.
Getting around Mull
You can get to most parts of the island by bus. Services given below are for Apr-Oct. Winter services are less frequent. There's a bus from Tobermory post office to Dervaig and Calgary, 5 times a day Mon-Fri and twice on Sat (operated by RN Carmichael, Tel. 01688-302220). The Craignure buses to Tobermory via Salen service runs 5 times a day Mon-Fri, 8 times on Sat and 3 times on Sun (operated by Bowman's Coaches, Tel. 01680-812313, and Highlands & Islands Coaches, Tel. 01680-812510). There's a bus from Craignure to Fionnphort (for Iona) 6 times a day Mon-Fri, 4 times on Sat and 1 on Sun (Bowman's and Highlands & Islands). There's also a postbus service from Salen to Burg (Kilninian) via the Ulva Ferry twice a day Mon-Sat (Royal Mail, Tel. 01463-256200). For bus times, contact the operators or pick up a free copy of the Mull Area Transport Guide at the tourist office in Oban, Tobermory or Craignure. This also includes ferry times.
The island's 140 miles of roads are almost all single-track and mostly in poor condition, so allow plenty of time to get from place to place. The best sections are from Craignure to Salen and the few miles south from Tobermory towards Salen. Petrol stations are few and far between, so it's best to fill up before leaving Oban, on arrival in Craignure, or in Tobermory. Another point worth noting is that the sheep on Mull are even more fearless and stubborn than in other parts of the Highlands and Islands and regard the roads very much as their own, which can slow you down even more. If you want to try your luck, you can hire a car from Mackay's Garage in Tobermory, or at the Bayview Garage just outside Craignure, on the road to Toronsay Castle. Expect to pay around £32-35 a day.
Cycling is a good way to get around and there are a number of places to rent bikes. In Tobermory there's Tom-a' Mhuillin on the Salen Rd, Tel. 01688-302164, Brown's Hardware shop on Main St, Tel. 01688-302020, or try the youth hostel. In Salen there's On Yer Bike, Tel. 01680-300501, which also has a shop by the ferry terminal in Craignure, Tel. 01680-812487. Expect to pay around £8-10 per day.
The weather in Mull
The best time to visit is generally May and Jun and late Aug to Sep. At these times midges and clegs (horse flies) are not so much of a problem. But Mull is the wettest of the Hebridean islands and rain can fall at any time, even in the summer months, so you'll need to come prepared.
Festivals & events in Mull
A great time to be on Mull is during the annual Mull Music Festival, known as the Whisky Olympics, is held on the last weekend of Apr, when you can enjoy a feast of Gaelic folk music and, of course, whisky. The focus of the festival is the bar of the Mishnish Hotel in Tobermory (for details Tel. 01688-302383). Another great musical event is the Mendelssohn on Mull Festival, held over 10 days in early Jul to commemorate the famous composer's visit here in 1829. The Sound of Mull, a day long celebration of local rock and pop acts, takes place at the end of Sep. The Tobermory Highland Games take place annually on the 3rd Thu in July. Rally enthusiasts should not miss the Tour of Mull Rally held in early Oct, which is part of the Scottish Championship. Anyone who's complained about the state of Mull's roads (and who hasn't?) should watch the professionals hurtle around the island at over 60 mph!